“ender 3 feeder” 3D Models to Print – yeggi – page 2 – Ender 3 Firmware + Source Code + SD Files + BL Touch

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Download | Creality 3D.Ender 3 (Pro & V2) Upgrades; Printable and for Purchase! – 3D Solved

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Combined with the MeanWell PSU upgrade also mentioned in this guide, I often forget my printer is running since it now generates so little noise. Of course, in addition to decreasing noise, this board and its upgraded stepper motor drivers improve the quality of your prints.

OctoPrint is the 1 upgrade for making the overall 3D-printing experience easier and more enjoyable. While this upgrade doesn’t relate directly to print quality, it will save you a ton of time and headaches. With OctoPrint, you won’t need to load and start prints from an SD card ever again. In a nutshell, OctoPrint is a library that runs on the small Raspberry Pi computer. When you want to print something, you’ll log into a slick interface from your computer.

This interface will allow you to control your printer, start and stop prints, and more. You can even monitor your printer remotely using a small camera! I wrote a full guide on installing and using OctoPrint on the Ender 3 , as well as a video :.

If you’re already using OctoPrint, why not add a nice touchscreen to your Ender 3? Check out my full guide on this, as well as my video :. For this project, I used the Adafruit 3. There are several reasons to upgrade your Ender 3 to a MeanWell PSU including noise, safety, and even reducing bed-leveling issues.

This means a much quieter printer, especially when paired with the silent board upgrade. This reason alone made the upgrade worth it to me. I work in the same room as my printer, so noise is a huge issue. MeanWell PSUs use higher quality components than the cheap stock unit, providing cleaner power with fewer of the electrical spikes and sags that could pose a safety hazard. The MeanWell PSU is noticeably thinner than the stock unit, which is handy if you’re using an enclosure and need to relocate it.

There are tons of different build plate surfaces out there: metal, magnetic, BuildTak, painter’s tape, and tons more. But after printing for many years on several different printers, I’ve always had the best experience with glass.

Glass beds are supremely flat, fixing the all-too-common “warped Ender 3 bed” issue that many of us experience. Glass beds also save on prep time, are easy to clean, and offer effortless print removal with a semi-glossy print finish. I wrote a comprehensive guide to 3D printing on a glass bed if you’d like to dive into the details. This xmm glass bed is the one I recommend for the Ender 3. Proper print illumination allows you to identify issues with your prints early—it’s also nice to be able to see what’s happening clearly.

There are tons of methods for adding an LED strip to your 3D printer. I prefer one that places the light source as high as possible in order to illuminate the entire print bed, not just the current print area. I wrote a comprehensive guide on adding an LED strip to your 3D printer , featuring the Ender 3 specifically.

Using the method outlined there, you can even power your LED strip directly from your Ender 3 by regulating the voltage using this buck converter in conjunction with this XT60 splitter cable. Check out that guide for step-by-step instructions on what to print and how to wire everything up!

Your bed springs might seem like an insignificant part of your 3D printer, but they’re actually quite important to bed leveling and stability. The stock Ender 3 bed springs are terrible and can lead to print issues and frequent bed leveling. These issues are largely caused by:. In fact, if you compare the stock and upgraded springs side by side, you can see only the upgraded ones feature a flat surface on the top and bottom.

This leads to less shifting compared to the stock springs. Upgraded Ender 3 springs take minutes to install and mean less frequent bed leveling between prints. The plastic metal feeder assembly on the Ender 3 leaves something to be desired, and improper tension can even cause feeder gear skips, leaving gaps in the layers of your print.

Installing an all-metal feeder assembly such as this one will add durability and stability to your printer. Yet another noise mod—adding these dampers to your X- and Y-axis stepper motors decreases the noise they generate by dB.

This is a simple, inexpensive mod with a measurable noise reduction impact. Most Ender 3s ship with an outdated version of the Marlin firmware, which lacks mandatory safety features such as thermal runaway protection. Thermal runaway is a condition where a failure in the thermocouple temperature sensor can cause your extruder to continue heating, forever, until your extruder block melts and a fire occurs. Thankfully, newer versions of Marlin have thermal runaway protection, a software-level safeguard that polls periodically for an increase in temperature and shuts things down if something isn’t right.

I wrote an in-depth guide to updating your Ender 3 firmware that you can follow to perform this mod. You’ll need any kind of Arduino to perform the firmware update, such as this inexpensive Arduino clone. This is a safety upgrade that you shouldn’t skip. Did I miss a mod or upgrade that you think is a must-have? Let me know in the comments section below! The process is the same for both the 1. Also visible in this photo are my Raspberry Pi enclosure and camera for use with OctoPrint.

Board fan guard Before you print anything else, print this mod. Filament guide This filament guide holds the filament away from the feeder, allowing for a more consistent feed rate and less skipping. Cable chain This cable chain is a must-have for preventing dangerous cable snags when the bed moves along the Y-axis.

Bowden tube fitting fix If your Bowden tube has popped out of place or if you’re having print quality issues, you might want to print these pressure fitting shims that will prevent your Bowden tubes from shifting or popping out during printing.

Beeper silencer You’ve probably noticed how loud the Ender 3 beeps when navigating the menu interface. Used here. Creality BLTouch V3. I was motivated by pain to purchase this kit and it saved me from more heartache. It fixed my problem and my thumb has since healed! When I was replacing my tube and nozzle, I saw that I had, at some point, not gotten the tube to butt up against the nozzle well.

This caused molten plastic to leak out into the hot end through the gap, and all over the hot end. It got under the insulating tape that wraps the hot end, and made a huge mess. I removed it all and ordered these silicone replacement socks. Once clean, I just slipped the sock over the end.

The most important, in my mind, is that the thermal runaway protection is disabled on the board. This just seems silly to me. The second is a bootloader. This is the software that allows you to upgrade the software loaded on the board. But best of all, for normal operations, it makes the axis servos much quieter by upgrading the driver that runs them. It makes the printer much quieter in operation. It has to have a bootloader, so this board is excellent for that.

The board is a one-for-one swap with the existing board, and the connectors go in the same places, making it an easy upgrade. The Ender 3 comes with a perfectly serviceable microSD card reader. All this works just fine. The issue comes only if you find the microSD card fiddly and difficult to work with. This cheap accessory will plug into the microSD slot on your printer, and the other end presents a full-sized SD card slot. Many computers come with SD card ports, so you could use this without needing an adapter.

SD cards tend to be easier to handle, due to being a lot larger. They are far more fat-finger friendly! Combine this with a 3d printed enclosure see below to make a nice, neat package that is housed on your printer.

Great for keeping tools out of the way but handy. If you use this one, make sure you have enough room behind your printer to be able to access the drawer and not jammed up against a wall or some other item.

It keeps everything neat, and it away from anything moving. This is an excellent mod to print for your Ender 3.

The filament comes off the top of the printer and can be quite taught before it goes into the feeder mechanism on the left side of the printer. This filament guide pushes the filament out, so that it has more of an arc before entering the feeder mechanism. I broke mine off when reaching around the printer, so it can get in the way. The fan on the extruder head is also used to cool the print.

To make that cooling more efficient, this vent ring will distribute the air flow and more effectively cool the print. The enclosure removes any possibility of a draft or uneven cooling for the print, which could cause warping and the unsticking of the first layer of the print.

To combat this, use an enclosure. You can make your own enclosure with whatever materials you have available, or you can consider something like this.

These will make your life easier and thus less frustrating when it comes to 3d printing. And that increases the fun for me. As always, your mileage may vary YMMV! The Ender 3 cannot print metal. It excels at printing PLA and ABS filament plastics, and it can work with other specialty filaments, but no form of metal filament will work with the Ender 3.

No commercial FDM filament printer will work with metal filament. The Ender 3 can print with flexible TPU filament. TPU, or thermoplastic polyurethane, is a flexible filament that mimics rubber.



Ender 3 feeder upgrade free download

This filament guide holds the filament away from the feeder, allowing for a more consistent feed rate and less skipping. It snaps. Quality ender 5 upgrade with free worldwide shipping on AliExpress. Direct Drive Feeder Replacement Kit For Creality 3D Ender-3 Ender-5 cr10s Printer. safety, or ease of use? Check out the best Ender 3 upgrades and mods right here. Download. Cable Chain, Ender 3 / Pro / V2, Free. Download.


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